Flavourful biryani and rich Haleem are Hyderabad’s ultimate BFF — everything else is pretty much “baigan ki batan nakko karo (don’t talk dumb)”, the city’s culinary shrug. But the Hyderabadi eating-out scene is rebooting and getting a serious upgrade. A 1,400-yearold gastronomic legacy from the Prophet’s time is shaking things up, attracting both the fasting and the food-curious.
As the muezzin’s call to sunset prayer resonates through the old city, lanes near Charminar come alive. Hands reach for dates, water is sipped, and the Iftar meal — a moment of spiritual reflection and indulgence — begins.
Hyderabadis are now breaking Ramzan fasts with the same flavours the Prophet relished, embracing dishes that transcend time.
Tharid, Talbina, Nabeez, and Harees — mentioned in Hadith literature and Sahih al-Bukhari — were once confined to home kitchens. They were prepared with a quiet reverence, passed down through generations without much fanfare. Now, they are very much in the public domain, making their way to roadside stalls and high-end eateries alike.
These foods, rooted in Arabic traditions of the 6th century, predate the Mughal and Nizam influences that shaped Hyderabadi cuisine.
But how did these recipes find their way from the pages of Sahih al-Bukhari into the city’s Iftar and Suhoor (also called sehri) menus?
Social activist Zakir Hussain has a theory. “Social media played a key role in the commercialisation of these foods. Since they come with a spiritual touch, many want to eat them. Moreover, all the ingredients — barley, dates, honey — are natural and healthy. And above all, there’s the blessing of the Prophet, as these were his favourite foods,” he said.
Former software engineer Syed Moazzam sets up a modest counter at Public Gardens before sunrise, serving Talbina to early risers for Suhoor (pre-dawn meal). “My mother prepares the dish,” Moazzam said.
Alongside, he offers Nabeez — a simple infusion of dates and water, rich in sugars and nutrients. “No added sugar, no artificial flavours, just the way it was taken centuries ago,” he said.
His customers are a mix of fasting Muslims, fitness enthusiasts, curious morning walkers, hypochondriac eaters, and even the Instagram-driven seekers of next big trend. Some seek the nutrient-packed dishes out for their health benefits. Talbina, for example, is said to be good for diabetics.
The Prophet’s diet, as documented in Hadith, revolved around barley, wheat, dates, milk, butter, and simple meats like goat or camel. Talbina, a barley-based porridge that was a favourite of Prophet, is served with camel milk, honey, or an assortment of dry fruits.
The Prophet recommended Talbina for its healing properties, particularly in relieving sadness and illness.
Juice-seller Abdul Qadar has taken things a step further, tweaking recipe to suit Hyderabadi palate. His Talbina comes in three variants — a rich, nut-laden version, a chilled shake, and a warm, comforting drink. “Once people know how good it is for their health, they come back for more,” he said.
Long before Michelin stars, YouTubers digging up overlooked culinary gems, and artisanal food trends, there was a cuisine dictated by necessity, simplicity, and spiritual wisdom. Hyderabad has been absorbing all these trends while looking backward at the same time.
Harees, a dish often confused with Persian Haleem, has been a Hyderabadi staple for decades. But now, it’s being rediscovered in its original, unembellished form.
Dr Haseeb Jafferi, an expert in Hyderabadi and Sufi cuisine, sees this as part of a larger movement. “Revival of ancient foods is a new trend as more people crave healthy recipes in their exploration for something new, and tasty. If there is a spiritual link to the food, it becomes popular,” he said.
Ruz Madani, a spiced rice dish from Medina, is another entrant in the city’s food scene. Rice was not a staple during Prophet’s time, but its association with the holy city gives it a spiritual seal of approval. In Hyderabad, a city that has always blended Indian, Persian, Turkish, and Arabian flavours, it feels like a natural fit.
What better metaphor for this fusion than the Charminar itself, with its four minarets pointing in all directions, as if reminding that food travels, transforms, and returns with new meaning. Who knew ancient food could be so cool?
Definitely not baigan.
- Tharid | Made with bread soaked in a meat broth, typically goat or chicken, and seasoned with spices like cinnamon, and cumin. Veggies like carrots, onions, and lentils add depth
- Harees | Wheat simmered with lamb or chicken, slow-cooked until it reaches a thick, porridge-like consistency, and flavoured with salt and ghee. Cherished for its high nutritional value
- Nabeez | One of the Prophet’s favoured beverages, it is a sweet and refreshing drink made by soaking dates or raisins overnight, offering hydration and energy
- Talbina | The Prophet’s favourite is a soothing porridge made from barley flour, milk, and honey. Rich in nutrients, it was a common meal in early Islamic society